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Spring has Sprung
in
the Sierra!
The April storms have given way to beautiful weather, swift running
streams, and emerging wildflowers. Ebbett's Pass above Bear Valley
has opened and a number of people are driving, cycling, and backcountry
skiing along the upper stretches of Highway 4. In addition, the rock
climbing areas in and around Bear Valley are opening up and some of
the locals have already put up some new climbing routes. |
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MAS
Safety Check
Excited about going rock climbing? Great, but take a moment before
you leave the ground and perform a safety check. At MAS we promote
a "3-Point Safety Check & Are You Using Your Head?".
This procedure requires both the climber and belayer* to inspect
each other on the critical parts of their safety system before each
climb. These critical points are the harness, carabiner, rope, and
your head.
Harnesses should be in good working order and assembled according
to manufacturer instructions. Important features are: 1) does the
harness fit correctly; and 2) are the hip and leg loop buckles doubled
back (note some harnesses are being built with buckles pre-doubled
back). When in doubt ask.
Carabiners used for belaying should be locking (preferred)
or two "opposite & opposed". Always check that a carabiner
is locked. If using two opposite & opposed, the carabiner gates
should create an "X" when both are opened. If the belayers
harness is equipped with a belay loop, this is where the locking
carabiner should be attached.
Ropes are the how the climber and belayer are connected in
the safety system. The climber should be tied into the rope through
both the hip and leg loop with a tightened figure-eight follow through,
with at least six inches of tail. On the belayers side, the rope
should be properly loaded through the belay device and locking carabiner.
Your Head is the most important piece of gear so why
not where a helmet. It only takes a small object from a short distance
to cause damage. Also evaluate the mental state of you and your
partner. Are you rushed, dehydrated, or distracted. Best to identify
these issues beforehand, then act accordingly.
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*
belayer - is the person, which manages
the rope and holds the climber in case they fall, when the climber
needs a rest and when the climber is lowered back down to the ground.
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